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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started getting a check brake light and check indicator light a few days ago. Changed the bulbs and still not working. Looked at the connectors and noticed a blown pin on the connector. It's missing in the lamp holder plug as well. Pictures attached.
The car is 2016 so out of warranty.
Any advice on its repair? Local garage or vauxhall?
 

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and probably other threads i haven't bookmarked,all the info you need is there including the potential of free repair under the special coverage for cars up to 5 years old
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Valer. Looks like I'm over 5 years. Think it's production was Feb 2016 which makes it nearly 6 🙁 is it worth bothering with vauxhall or should I just go to a garage?
 

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Cheapest is to diy,
either using the parts listed in one of the threads or iirc there is a diy using wire and fitting a new earth on one of them.
 
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If you replace it, people are commenting on it only happening again. I would be very tempted to do the drilling of an alternative earth point.
I would make it as neat as possible and seal the hole with silicone sealant. It is in the 1st thread valer posted iirc

If only error free low current led bulbs were available.
 

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Cheapest is to diy,
either using the parts listed in one of the threads or iirc there is a diy using wire and fitting a new earth on one of them.
Reckon you could tell me how to get the free repair on dm (I am thick yes)
 

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If only error free low current led bulbs were available.
It makes me doubly aware of applying the handbrake at traffic lights and not indicating until just before i move lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll give them a ring tomorrow and see what they say even though I already know, worth a try. I'm wary as I don't want them to do the engine remap thing either.

Do I need to replace both parts? Can I get away with just replacing the bulb part and not the plug?
 

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I had the same issue (IV actually got the full housing replacement not fitted yet) get a bit of copper and put it in the burnt hole and reattach should work with no issues, check there is no wires touching further back in the harness that's why mine blew think that's why other people have been blowing the replacements
 

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I am in two minds whether to remove each rear light cluster from my car, inspect them and slightly twist earth male prong on the lights before putting back.
I read about a technician having good results by doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Vauxhall are annoying lol £100 an hour for diags. If the faults not covered they'd quote me and I'd loose the £100. If its covered they'll fix it all for free. Sounds like a con lol
He did say if I'm under 60k miles it might still be fixed under warranty even as I'm over 3 years.
 

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Vauxhall are annoying lol £100 an hour for diags. If the faults not covered they'd quote me and I'd loose the £100. If its covered they'll fix it all for free. Sounds like a con lol
He did say if I'm under 60k miles it might still be fixed under warranty even as I'm over 3 years.
The tsb is 100,000 mls or 5 years which ever the sooner.
Just make sure they carry the light cluster and the replacement plug kit and they are not on back order prior to letting them have the car, as it is two visits otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After my chat with Vauxhall and the replies in the previous threads I've decided to do it myself. I've purchased the tail light and plug kit which was £65. Any advice on the wire kit? What would I need to connect it all? I might see if a local garage would do it for me if it's hassle, doubt it would cost much to do it if I had the bits.
 

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Just solder the wires protect them and that's basically it, you could even just twist the wires together if your a bit hesitant with an iron, as long as you have a good connection and they are protected, or contact an auto electrician he would do it for pennies. It's a very easy job mate
 

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Just solder the wires protect them and that's basically it, you could even just twist the wires together if your a bit hesitant with an iron, as long as you have a good connection and they are protected, or contact an auto electrician he would do it for pennies. It's a very easy job mate
A good solder connection or a good crimp is what he is looking for, i am sorry, but "Just twist them together" is not good advice, especially in an application like this, where there is bound to be movement and vibration.

The crimp should be made with a suitable crimping tool to make a good crimp.

Actually for stability, a good crimp is better that a solderjoint, as the solderjoint has a rigid part, and solderflux will travel underneath the insulation, and flux is corrosive.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All fixed! I got the plug bit and light part from ebay for £65. Borrowed a crimp set off someone at work. Took me about an hour, 20 minutes of that trying to figure out where the battery was lol had no clue it was in the boot! The crimp tool made it so easy, strips the wire and everything. Works great until one of the wires wriggles loose from my shoddy crimping 😀
Thank you for the replies and help from those that posted, it really helped.
 

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All fixed! I got the plug bit and light part from ebay for £65. Borrowed a crimp set off someone at work. Took me about an hour, 20 minutes of that trying to figure out where the battery was lol had no clue it was in the boot! The crimp tool made it so easy, strips the wire and everything. Works great until one of the wires wriggles loose from my shoddy crimping 😀
Thank you for the replies and help from those that posted, it really helped.
Nice that you got it fixed without a visit to the stealers Jason (y) A quick tip for you re: the crimping tool. Was it one of those basic ones that acts like a cheap pair of pliers ? If it was and you want to buy one for yourself in the future, buy a decent ratchet-type one. Bit more expensive but well worth it for perfect crimps every time.
 
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