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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I had a quick look and the caps didn’t want to come off. Do they just pull off? Didn’t want to force them and break something.

Also, why would glow plugs show up bad just because the weather is getting cooler (though it really isn’t that much colder yet). Glow plugs are always needed on a cold engine, even in the summer, aren’t they?
 

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the caps just pull off.its a system that checks its self but in colder temperature its gets its info from other sensors eg the out side temperature sensor,but i would look on u tube on how check the glow plugs and change them if needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks for all your replies on this.

I’ve not yet measured glow plug resistance, but, the code is intermittent (today was the coldest yet and there was no code). Also the car idles smoothly when cold and there’s no white smoke, so I don’t think it’s glow plugs.

Looking at scanning tools I hear mention of a ‘service soon’ message based on brake pad depth. Quite how this is measured I don’t know. Might be a red herring. Either way rear pads were done recently and wear tabs on fronts are at about 4mm off the discs. (I’m still on the original front pads at 69,000 miles, which seems quite remarkable).

I guess I’ll just keep an eye on it.
 

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Looking at scanning tools I hear mention of a ‘service soon’ message based on brake pad depth. Quite how this is measured I don’t know. Might be a red herring.
Deffo a red herring for the K model Crunchynut as they use an audible pad wear indicator......in other words, a "prong" of metal that starts to catch the disc when the pads are getting low and makes a racket every time you brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I finally got round to measuring the resistance of my glow plugs, to see if they might be causing the ‘service vehicle soon’ message.

Pot 1: 2 ohms
Pot 2: 2 ohms
Pot 3: 169 ohms
Pot 4: 2 ohms

No rocket science needed to diagnose this one!

No trouble starting atm, no white smoke or rough idle when cold. So I suspect pot 3 is still getting hot enough to get the combustion cycle sustained. But the writing is on the wall.

Next step is to see how much the dealer will charge to replace it, how much the part is, and decide whether I do it myself or not. It would be a no brainier to do it myself if it weren’t for the threat of the thing shearing off and leaving the end in the cylinder head. Though I wonder what would happen if this happened whilst the dealer was doing it - would they fix it and just charge me the original cost, or should they revise their cost because the job ‘got complicated’?

I’ll let you know prices.
 

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No rocket science needed to diagnose this one!
I’ll let you know prices.
I agree there Crunchy - lol. I just had a quick looksy online and they appear to be between a tenner and twenty quid a pop, depending who's selling them so at least you know it's not gonna break the bank, thankfully (y)

Lets's hope they aren't too bad to get at and it isn't seized. My Combo van had one that seized and snapped when i tried to remove it. Thankfully there are quite a few specialists around that can remove the remnants without a complete tear-down for less than £100. Think it cost me about £70 6 years ago.

##EDIT## Just had a look and it appears there's not much to remove at all to get access to the plugs, just the beauty cover. It does, however mention a special tool,
(EN-6104 Glow Plug Socket) which at a guess will be a really deep socket to remove the actual plugs so you may well be able to get around that.
 

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I finally got round to measuring the resistance of my glow plugs, to see if they might be causing the ‘service vehicle soon’ message.

Pot 1: 2 ohms
Pot 2: 2 ohms
Pot 3: 169 ohms
Pot 4: 2 ohms

No rocket science needed to diagnose this one!

No trouble starting atm, no white smoke or rough idle when cold. So I suspect pot 3 is still getting hot enough to get the combustion cycle sustained. But the writing is on the wall.

Next step is to see how much the dealer will charge to replace it, how much the part is, and decide whether I do it myself or not. It would be a no brainier to do it myself if it weren’t for the threat of the thing shearing off and leaving the end in the cylinder head. Though I wonder what would happen if this happened whilst the dealer was doing it - would they fix it and just charge me the original cost, or should they revise their cost because the job ‘got complicated’?

I’ll let you know prices.
I agree, that one is gone.

A simple math says that the good ones draw 72 Watts and the bad one only does 0,85 Watts.

The bad one will not get anywhere as hot as it should...And it probably even gets even higher ohms, when it gets "hot"
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Good to know that recovery after a stuck plug isn’t necessarily an engine tear down.

How likely are they to be seized on a 5 year old 70k miles car?

The failing plug is still doing enough to get that cylinder going, based on no white smoke and smooth idle when cold, but I guess it’s a matter of time until it goes open circuit.
 

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How likely are they to be seized on a 5 year old 70k miles car?
I think it's a "how long is a piece of string" type of query unfortunately. My 1700 Isuzu Combo engine had done 160K and had been regularly maintained. Two of mine had gone within quick succession of each other so I decided to change the lot in an attempt to not tempt fate...............three of them just about fell out. I was well surprised but the one that seized didn't budge at all regardless of what I tried to do. The guy who removed it in situ (after it eventually sheared) for me remarked what a t**t it was to shift as well.

The failing plug is still doing enough to get that cylinder going, based on no white smoke and smooth idle when cold, but I guess it’s a matter of time until it goes open circuit.
TBH I would suspect at that resistance figure you've got, it prolly isn't even warming up at all. We haven't had any really cold days yet have we either so I can't see the weather being an issue for a modern diesel yet. Better to get it sorted sooner rather than later though I reckon. (y)

If you decide to do it yourself, take it steady and use plenty of wd40 etc to free them if they're stiff. Dunno how good at DIY you are fella (so don't take this the wrong way) but remember if they stay stiff as they're coming out, keep applying some thin oil (as WD etc doesn't really have any lubrication properties) and keep reversing the direction so you only shift them bit by bit to lessen the chance of them shearing. I was also told by a diesel fitter to remove them when the engine is hot which apparently helps (mebbe that's why the other three fell out ?) but I still had one seized so I don't know how accurate that statement is :unsure:

The fixing torque is 12 lb/ft (16.5Nm) :)
 
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warm engine,soak with wd40 every day for 4 to 5 day before you do the job.buy a 1/4 drive torque wrench set it to the glow plug torque setting which i think its 9 or 10 nm, you will need some ceramic grease to put on the threads of the new glow plugs.when you try to remove them 1/4 turn undo first then 1/4 tighten
 

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warm engine,soak with wd40 every day for 4 to 5 day before you do the job.buy a 1/4 drive torque wrench set it to the glow plug torque setting which i think its 9 or 10 nm, you will need some ceramic grease to put on the threads of the new glow plugs.when you try to remove them 1/4 turn undo first then 1/4 tighten
Good advice Chris. Just got the torque setting wrong fella. It's 12 lb/ft or 16.5Nm. (y) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thanks both. I’ll see what the dealer charges and then decide whether to go diy or not.

Question: if the dealer breaks one off and the job turns into a nightmare for them, what is the normal practice - do they pass the extra charge to the customer or swallow it?
 

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Question: if the dealer breaks one off and the job turns into a nightmare for them, what is the normal practice - do they pass the extra charge to the customer or swallow it?
I don't know tbh. I'm guessing one of the ex techs will be able to advise more accurately on that but IMHO unless something along the lines of "breakages/problems due to existing equipment being un-removable etc etc" is quoted at the time of booking for the job required, they should absorb the extra labour cost at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Success !! The original part from VX dealer was £32 (would have been £20 delivered from a parts place, but their recommended part stated 4V whereas OEM part states 4.4V. Would almost certainly function ok but the sensing software might sense a problem so I thought I’d play safe). VX quoted £87 (parts and labour) to replace it, which I didn’t think was unreasonable. Question was, should I pay £55 for a tech to do the simple task of unscrewing the plug and screwing in a new one? I couldn’t bring myself to do it so did it myself. Another factor in my mind was that I could take my time (soak in pen oil, get engine hot etc) whereas a tech may have a short window to get it done and hence maybe more chance of breakage and costly extraction.

Following your advice, I sprayed with penetrating fluid (WD40’s specialist penetrating oil) on 5 occasions over the course of 2 days (unfortunately the angle of the head meant the fluid ran off rather than puddled round the plug, so I had to keep spraying it periodically rather than let it ‘soak’). I then ran the car for 20 mins to get it nice and hot, then reached for my wrench.

I bought a Sealy deep socket (Sealey SP1410D Walldrive Fully Polished Deep Socket, 1/4" Square Drive, 10mm) off Amazon for a massive £2.25 and used the 0-20NM torque wrench that I own primarily for my mountain bike. The tightening torque is 15NM for Beru plugs, so I set my wrench to a very safe 10NM to see if it would undo at that - and it did. After cracking it open it then just unscrewed with my fingers. Job done in 15 minutes after a week thinking about it!

Car started fine and ‘Service vehicle soon’ warning gone.

Thanks everybody.
 
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