[Maldonado]

Thank you very much for the advise.

Regarding the silicone to be used when mounting the towbar actually I didn't read it in the instructions but I saw it in the Brink video for installing a towbar (then I read silicone was required for blocking the cable controller access and got fixated with this); I guess it the kit brings foam blocks it wont be necessary.

For connecting to the braking wire (54) ECS kit indicates to connect to yellow-grey wire for pre 11/2019 cars or purple-white fro newer models but the PF jones kit only indicates the purple-while cable. I have had a look in my car which is 2018 and has both cables; yellow-grey and purple-white cables; which on did you connected to? I guess to verify I could I trace cable to fuse box?

 

[Maldonado]

The color of the brake cable is actually meant to be white-purple for older than 11/2019 cars and yellow-grey for newer models according to instructions

 

[Shaky]

The color of the brake cable is actually meant to be white-purple for older than 11/2019 cars and yellow-grey for newer models according to instructions

On the older cars Maldonado, don't get the main wire colour/tracers confused. coz there is a Yellow with a Grey tracer for the Fog light and a Grey with a Yellow tracer for the N/S brake light. The Violet with a White tracer is the feed for the High-Level brake light which is what you are supposed to splice into.

Hope that helps.

 

[Crunchynut]

Update from me after a problem

I was getting intermittent dash warnings about bulb failure, even though bulbs were fine and sometimes worked normally.

I also got warnings when no trailer fitted - made me think CAN was being scrambled.

So, I soldered the appropriate wire to the CAN cable rather than rely on the scotch lock, and it seems ok now.

If you are fitting from scratch then I would solder rather than use scotch locks (disconnect -ve battery lead first).

 

[Shaky]

Update from me after a problem

I was getting intermittent dash warnings about bulb failure, even though bulbs were fine and sometimes worked normally.

I also got warnings when no trailer fitted - made me think CAN was being scrambled.

So, I soldered the appropriate wire to the CAN cable rather than rely on the scotch lock, and it seems ok now.

If you are fitting from scratch then I would solder rather than use scotch locks (disconnect -ve battery lead first).

Very good advice Crunchy which I would whole-heartedly endorse. I tend to cut the wire I intend to splice into, add the extra wire, solder the connection then finish off with at least one layer of heatshrink tubing. Crimping (good quality ones, using the correct pliers) would also be a decent way to go.

On my ST Tow-Bar fit, I located the CAN wire to the Parking Sensor module around the same area as the Hi-Lev brake light, spliced into both of them there and extended them into the boot space to a 2-way connector.

 

[Crunchynut]

Well, this has turned into a right PITA. I keep getting CAN related problems despite having soldered every connection possible (with battery disconnected so I haven’t fried anything) and it’s driving me mad.

Having worked fine for a while (so I know it is connected correctly) I’m now getting a fault whereby with boot open, everything works fine, but if I shut the boot then I get error signals on the trailer and random information displays about faults. Go figure! Does boot closure put the trailer module into a different mode or something?

Any thoughts?

 

[Shaky]

Well, this has turned into a right PITA. I keep getting CAN related problems despite having soldered every connection possible (with battery disconnected so I haven’t fried anything) and it’s driving me mad.

Having worked fine for a while (so I know it is connected correctly) I’m now getting a fault whereby with boot open, everything works fine, but if I shut the boot then I get error signals on the trailer and random information displays about faults. Go figure! Does boot closure put the trailer module into a different mode or something?

Any thoughts?

The first thing that came to mind was to ask if you have a power tailgate ? Just clutching at straws really as I noticed on my old 1400 (with keyless ign. and a power tailgate) that when the trailer was connected, the power release wouldn't work off either the keyfob or the button on the drivers door. The only way you could open it was to operate the button above the reg. plate. I guess this will be controlled through the CAN network so mebbe some sensors going u/s ?

The other thing I would check (unfortunately this would be another pita bud) is any frayed/stressed wiring around the points where the harness travels from car body to hatch.

Finally, as electrical problems can be absolute tw**s to find, I would check all the fuses, especially if any of them are loose fits in their holders - worth a try ?

 

[Crunchynut]

Thanks for the ideas.

Not a powered tailgate, so no possibility there. Fuses seem ok and the fact it all works as it should with the tailgate open suggests the basic wiring is fine. And the tailgate can be closed to within the last mm before the catch engages and it works, but once the catch ‘clicks’ ……error!

Seems there is a logic problem somewhere, set off by the sensor on the tailgate. Perhaps the trailer module is dodgy.

 

[Shaky]

Here's the wiring schematic for the liftgate control Crunchynut if it helps:- (UTT stands for the Alarm System)

Mebbe you could recreate the problem with the tailgate open ? At least then you may well be able to actually prove which component is causing the issues you're having - good luck fella.

 

[Crunchynut]

Thanks for that - useful even though i don’t fully understand it. What is perhaps a clue, is that the wire from the latch back to the bcm is violet and white - the same as the colour for the rear high level brake light that is tapped into for brake signal. If the brake lights on the trailer didn’t work properly ever, then I’d conclude I got the wrong wire - but they do work and have worked, so perhaps just a coincidence that it’s the same colour wire. Something else for me to double check though. Thanks.

 

[Crunchynut]

I learnt two things yesterday 1) thanks to the wiring diagram from Shaky, I learnt that the boot latch sensing wire is the same colour as the wire the wiring instructions tell you to connect to for high level brake light. Too much of a coincidence it seems, given my fault symptoms. 2) an old post from some VW forum where a comment was made that the connection to brakes is a fail safe, whereby if the trailer module loses CAN it outputs a good old fashioned signal to the brake lights to alert the driver. Makes me wonder whether this wire that I might have connected to the boot latch rather than the high level brake light is even needed.

So, I cut it, insulated the end and cast it behind the trim panel. And now everything works as it should.

No fail-safe though - but then I check the electrics every time I put the cycle carrier on and never go very far with it, so I would soon know if the trailer module isn’t working. Also a fail safe that turns brake lights on doesn’t become apparent whilst driving anyway.

Earlier in this thread I was bemused why brake signal was taken from a 12v wire and not derived from CAN. Now I understand that it is derived from CAN and the connection to the brake wire is for another purpose.

So it seems I got there in the end after a struggle and lots of detective work.
Thanks for your inputs.

 

[Shaky]

Nicely worked out Crunchynut. I'm glad the diagram helped a little also. So it appears that what i read about the reason for the Brake Light connection was (to relieve a bit of strain on the CANbus) is not correct then.

Glad you got it sorted fella.

 

[John Carson]

So, I bit the bullet and bought a Brink detachable towbar and fitted it yesterday. Saved £200 on the fitted price.

For those who will take confidence from a little more detail, the commentary below covers what I found.

Electrics:-
Internal electrics are for another day. Watch this space …..

Hi Crunchy

Need to get a towbar fitted over the next few weeks, I'll read your comprehensive looking write up in due course

Just to give me something to think about meantime, could you please post or send me pictures of your Brink detachable fitted? mrtullyhubbert@hotmail.com

Is there an easy just plug it in kit for the wiring or must I fit a canbus bypass relay thingy? (7 pin system is all that required) I have wired those on my H and a Zafira but it was a while ago.

Thanks

--
John

 

[Shaky]

Is there an easy just plug it in kit for the wiring or must I fit a canbus bypass relay thingy? (7 pin system is all that required) I have wired those on my H and a Zafira but it was a while ago.
Thanks
John

I don't believe anyone makes a kit with male/female adapter plugs for the K to avoid having to splice in any wiring. The vehicle specific kits do take into account parking sensors and cut them out if you're towing which AFAIK the bypass relays do not. If your car hasn't got them fitted, I suppose a bypass relay would do the job perfectly, though you will still have to splice into some existing wiring. One of the members on here (don't think he's around anymore) used a bypass kit on his car HERE and posted a lot of info re: his fitting of it that may help you @John Carson ?

I have the Brink Diagonal Detachable on mine but it's an ST, not a HB so I don't suppose pics would help you of mine - sorry.

 

[John Carson]

I don't believe anyone makes a kit with male/female adapter plugs for the K to avoid having to splice in any wiring. The vehicle specific kits do take into account parking sensors and cut them out if you're towing which AFAIK the bypass relays do not. If your car hasn't got them fitted, I suppose a bypass relay would do the job perfectly, though you will still have to splice into some existing wiring. One of the members on here (don't think he's around anymore) used a bypass kit on his car HERE and posted a lot of info re: his fitting of it that may help you @John Carson ?

I have the Brink Diagonal Detachable on mine but it's an ST, not a HB so I don't suppose pics would help you of mine - sorry.

Thanks Shaky

I'm in the really early stages of selecting/purchasing a towbar, but want to have it done (Fitted by myself) by 31st August.

PF Jones would deliver a Witter detachable with universal 7 pin kit (With bypass) for £356. Vehicle specific kit = £456

I've a 2019 1.4T Griffin, it doesn't have parking sensors. What does the vehicle specific kit do that's different to a bypass relay Shaky? I'm assuming it's designed not to cause any canbus issues and the electronics are built into the 7 pin socket itself? Having fitted bypass issues without issue before (Albeit on an H and a Zafira of the same vintage) I'd be tempted to save myself £100 and use a bypass relay.

I'm not sure if the bypass relay is included with the Universal 7 pin kit, picture attached, what do you think?

Thanks all

 

[Shaky]

Thanks Shaky

I'm in the really early stages of selecting/purchasing a towbar, but want to have it done (Fitted by myself) by 31st August.

PF Jones would deliver a Witter detachable with universal 7 pin kit (With bypass) for £356. Vehicle specific kit = £456

Towing Centres dot com (also known as Towone) Have the Brink Diagonal detachable, with bypass Electrics for just over £302.

I've a 2019 1.4T Griffin, it doesn't have parking sensors. What does the vehicle specific kit do that's different to a bypass relay Shaky? I'm assuming it's designed not to cause any canbus issues and the electronics are built into the 7 pin socket itself? Having fitted bypass issues without issue before (Albeit on an H and a Zafira of the same vintage) I'd be tempted to save myself £100 and use a bypass relay.

AFAIK it lets the car know you're towing summat and sets the towing driving profile up and also lets the CAN network know to turn off sensors,fog light etc but that is a guess on my part admittedly. There is no programming needed on the Astra K, thankfully so it's basically almost the same as fitting a bypass relay. I.E. just splicing a few wires in, although with you not having sensors fitted, you would have to run the CAN pickup wire right to the front of the car unless there is another module at the rear somewhere that has the correct CAN wiring in place.

I'm not sure if the bypass relay is included with the Universal 7 pin kit, picture attached, what do you think?

I would have said yes, seeing as the dropdown box (I presume you've selected in that image) states "with bypass" 🤷‍♂️ but again, that's a guess.

Thanks all

Hope any of this helps

 

[John Carson]

Towing Centres dot com (also known as Towone) Have the Brink Diagonal detachable, with bypass Electrics for just over £302.

I looked and looked but all I was being offered was Enganches Aragon towbars, so getting frustrated and needing to get things moving I've just ordered the Witter Vertical with bypass electrics from PF Jones.

There is no programming needed on the Astra K, thankfully so it's basically almost the same as fitting a bypass relay. I.E. just splicing a few wires in, although with you not having sensors fitted, you would have to run the CAN pickup wire right to the front of the car unless there is another module at the rear somewhere that has the correct CAN wiring in place.

In the first instance I just need to get it bolted on then at least I can pull my motorbike trailer and the lights of the car are still visible!

Last time I wired a bypass relay I just connected a 12V power supply to the bypass relay (Probably live when car powered up, I'll figure that out) separate indicator connections left and right, one side light (As the side/brake are common and reading through this thread quickly I believe the K is the same) Don't think I bothered with the fog as neither of my trailers have any ... I think! I'm hoping the K is the same although things may have moved on.

Not sure what you mean by a CAN pickup Shaky, this worries me

Hope any of this helps

Thanks for taking the time, no doubt when everything arrives I'll be back here asking for more advice. Thanks again for now

 

[Shaky]

Last time I wired a bypass relay I just connected a 12V power supply to the bypass relay (Probably live when car powered up, I'll figure that out) separate indicator connections left and right, one side light (As the side/brake are common and reading through this thread quickly I believe the K is the same) Don't think I bothered with the fog as neither of my trailers have any ... I think! I'm hoping the K is the same although things may have moved on.

Not sure what you mean by a CAN pickup Shaky, this worries me

I've never wired a bypass setup @John Carson so I can't help you on that. The last towbar I fitted was to my Combo Van and that had a "plug'n'play" wiring kit as it had no CAN whatsoever on it.

Don't be worried about the CAN pickup comment fella, in it's simplest terms it would just be another wire to splice into but I believe the bypass relays don't need it.

Thanks for taking the time, no doubt when everything arrives I'll be back here asking for more advice. Thanks again for now

No problem bud ask away, there'll always be someone here to assist.

 

[Crunchynut]

@John Carson sorry I just saw your request for some pics. I’ll look some out, but not sure they will tell you much, in that when detached nothing is visible and when attached - well - it looks like a tow hitch!🤣.

Let me know if there’s anything I can help with. My one big piece of advice is to solder your wire splices rather than use scotch locks.

 

[Shaky]

My one big piece of advice is to solder your wire splices rather than use scotch locks.

I would agree whole-heartedly with @Crunchynut comment on the soldering. Either that or a good-quality ratchet-type crimper but soldering + heatshrink would be my preferred option