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What I do like about this engine is that it usually fully warms up very quickly, within 1- 2 miles of driving, less in the summer. My previous car being a diesel, that took an absolute age. My torque converter auto box works very well too with this engine.
Yes mine heats up faster aswell. It maybe down to the exhaust manifold being incorporated in the head and it being water cooled I presume.
 

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Changing of the temp sensor will not change anything. If the the sensor was faulty it would give varying temps or none at all. If the temperature is dropping whilst the fan heater has been selected then the cold air being drawn in through the heater matrix I to the cabin. Also by having the heater set to warm, you've allowed the flow of coolant to circulate the heater matrix. An engine using fuel creates a lot of heat, but a engine using very little will not. If you're travelling along with very little throttle then the cold air still runs through the radiator even so with the thermostat closed that cold air come into the engine bay area and cools the block and associated cooling pipes.
 

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I have read quite a few threads about temp gauge issues on vauxhalls. What I have picked up is that these engines run hotter than that displayed on the gauge. Some say it is to keep the driver happy and only has 3 crucial points: cold, normal and overheating ( shown on a normal analogue scale). There does seem to be some truth in this, as drivers become alarmed if they see their temp going to 105c plus. Vauxhall actually omitted the temp gauge on the astra h but put it back on newer models to keep driver happy.
So that said I would consider changing the temp sensor to eliminate it at least if it were my car.
The OBD scanner helps validating the temp gauge reading. Mine shows identical reading on physical gauge and via OBD.
...meanwhile VW keeps users happy by showing temp reading 90 degrees on gauge when actual coolant temp is 70 degrees 😂 Damn cheaters!

Changing of the temp sensor will not change anything. If the the sensor was faulty it would give varying temps or none at all. If the temperature is dropping whilst the fan heater has been selected then the cold air being drawn in through the heater matrix I to the cabin. Also by having the heater set to warm, you've allowed the flow of coolant to circulate the heater matrix. An engine using fuel creates a lot of heat, but a engine using very little will not. If you're travelling along with very little throttle then the cold air still runs through the radiator even so with the thermostat closed that cold air come into the engine bay area and cools the block and associated cooling pipes.
This is true and valid issue for microdiesels and micropetrols. But 1.4T is survivor and should not act like that even in northern -25 degree winter.
Original poster stated that this behaviour has developed over time and car was not born like that.
 

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Changing of the temp sensor will not change anything. If the the sensor was faulty it would give varying temps or none at all. If the temperature is dropping whilst the fan heater has been selected then the cold air being drawn in through the heater matrix I to the cabin. Also by having the heater set to warm, you've allowed the flow of coolant to circulate the heater matrix. An engine using fuel creates a lot of heat, but a engine using very little will not. If you're travelling along with very little throttle then the cold air still runs through the radiator even so with the thermostat closed that cold air come into the engine bay area and cools the block and associated cooling pipes.
I agree with you regarding the temp sensor, but for the price of it and it being a relatively easy task to do, it would eliminate it at least.

My engine temp never fluctuates come hail, rain or shine once warmed up. The fact the op has commented on it not being the norm for the car, something has changed.
 
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